Tuesday, January 23, 2007

A little explanation

I can't believe that I have had a full house for almost a week! It has been fantastic, and in addition to the house guests, chez moi has become the official hang-out for half of Niamey. Friends have taken to stopping by in the evening, pulling out a plastic mat and making tea for themselves on the terrace. I hear the comings and goings, and the radio will suddenly blast and I know that Mohammed has arrived to test out the latest CD. My absolute favorite of which is "Grippe Aviare"- a musical delight from the Ivory Coast called "Bird Flu." I am still trying to get my hands on the video, in which people are shown eating chicken and then suddenly break out into what we know in the States as the wedding chicken-dance. Aria has started stocking a small bar in his guardian room- pastis, gin, wine, etc. People bring over their preferred indulgences and Aria discreetly tucks it all away in his room and then regulates. Although he can also be an instigator, I am finding out...

Hisham has been staying with us for one week before heading up to Agadez. He is making his second documentary about Nigerien music and you can learn about his work at www.sublimefrequencies.com. We have all had a wonderful time together, sharing friends, contacts, and supporting each other in our goals here. Mohammed arranged for a private Wodaabe concert for Hisham to film, and so I have posted some of those photos. Traditionally, the men paint their faces and the wear special clothing for an annual festival called the Gerewol. Once a year, the nomadic families gather, men dress up and perform, and the women choose their husbands from the line-up. But as more tourists come and as Nigeriens in general are interested in this aspect of their culture, dressing this way has become a sort of Wodaabe "shtick" and there are performances all around town. Wodaabe youth and getting involved and the songs and dance that might otherwise be lost are getting passed on.

And so we have had a full week- searching for traditional and modern music all over the streets of Niamey with Hisham, seeing giraffes and having the car break down, drinking tea (and Aria's stash) in the evening under the stars, and laughing and laughing. It is so incredible to be surrounded with such inspiring old and new friends. We are saving a chicken dance for you all...

4 comments:

NIGER1.COM said...

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Margaret said...

Hey Steph (and Holly)!

I'm thrilled to hear that you're having a blast in Niger (your description of the activities at your house this past week gives me nostalgie for those days in N'dioum...except I don't think our guardian had a private bar!) Do you get to sleep on the roof under the stars? I miss that.

Love the blog and your stories---du courage!

Margaret

Pixiewinkle said...

Hi Ladies,
I did a little research on this bird flu dance movement and wow, I never knew birds could inspire a dance craze. This guy is pretty good, but I wish I had found the one Steph was talking about.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPzOgYa_NAY
We miss you Holl! It's cold as balls in NYC so you aren't missing anything. Barbara misses you too. Boopsieboo got a haircut. Check her out at boopsieboo.blogspot.com

Tom Robbins said...

Steph, I'll see your Granny this week and will pass on your success stories. She'll be thrilled. I look forward to pictures with the Niger Chicken Dance.
Have fun and be bold.